The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby


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Beneath the trees were seats, and at the end of the walk a roofed stand, brilliantly lighted, and covered articles ticketed and numbered. Here one brings the little twisted screw of paper received on entering; and putting it in water, it unrolls, when the number can be read. Almost invariably everyone finds a blank! If, however, a number should be inside, the prize gained may consist of a looking- ylass, a bottle of beer, cheap vases, trumpery glass, or china ornaments.

The promenaders consisted of young men and girls, chiefly of ilie middle classes.

The dresses were brilliant pinks, blues, and whites, modern and gaudy hats being mostly worn. The night was warm, as, indeed, every night in Santa Cruz is, the temperature between day and night varying little. VPTER 1!.

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Henry i the following morning we started for Laguna at 10 a. The ascent at once in the town, which is built on the slope of the re Humboldt saw the " narrow and sandy beach " s of dazzling whiteness arc built close against a ill of black perpendicular rock," I know not. The whole of his lint of the island is very inaccurate. As wr ip a steep and straight street leading out of town, a funeral met us.

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The coffin, covered with black as borne by four bearers, while some eight or ten little carrying lighted lamps followed in careless fashion. Their owners shorten their hold of the halters as they pass, for those cynical eyes do not always betoken the sweetest of tempers, as they glance down contemptuously on the passers-by. Some countrymen pi us, sitting sideways upon their odd-looking saddles, or albardas.

These arc made with high points back and front, and are covered by sheepskin.

Everything that can be carried on horseback is packed on the saddles; even the panniers that the donkeys carry are slung across the albarda. It takes some time to become accustomed to seeing men sitting sideways, but the pack-saddles arc too broad to make the ordinary way possible, or at any rate comfortable. Trees have been planted along each side of the road for little distance beyond the town. They arc young, and afft of course, no shelter.

There was not much vegetation of sort, cither wild or cultivated. Near the town there were few date palms in the gardens, but as we ascended, country was a dusty, barren brown. Evidently water scarce, and this is confirmed by the appearance of cistei here and there. The land, which is a steep slope towai Santa Cruz, is divided up into irregular patches — one cam call them fields — by low walls of grey lava stones.

So si is the slope in many places that terraces arc necessary, sol of them being only a yard or two wide.

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The general asj of the country is brown, enlivened only by the pale dull cactus and a few scattered trees, and after the hot everything looks parched and withered. A cross erected on the wayside as a praying station the only thing of note upon the road. Near it was anotl cross on a small pedestal, erected where a corpse, on carried to the cemetery, was laid down to rest the bearei custom prevalent throughout the archipelago.

Wc passed the two-kilometre stone, feet above the sea. It is built up at many places where thi are dips in the land, the bank thus caused being as un tectcd as the rest of the road. A man carrying two bags of prickly pears, slung round his neck, and hanging down front and back, presented a curiot tacle, as if poulticed — a rather warm treatment for both the man and the pears along this dnsty and unshaded road.

Another man, with a goatskin bag on his back, in which he carried his food, as did his Guanche ancestors, we also met tramping along. Four kilometres from Santa Cruz we were feet up, ind the temperature was still 80 F. The journey was full of interest because new, but the scene could hardly be called beautiful, except when we looked towards the iea As the road wound backwards and forwards, cool, refreshing breezes came to us off the ocean, a perfect blue, Ur beneath us, even through the heat that quivered above the brown earth.

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Away in the distance tower in faint outline the mountains of Gran Canaria. Presently we came to the cross-roads between Gufmar, Laguna, and the capital. A much-frequented venta is at one corner, at which we stopped, and our driver got down. A motley assemblage of laden donkeys and mules stood in the shade of the house, whisking the flies off their hot sides with their tails, the owners either lounging about outside or in the little bar or shop buying wine. We followed our driver into the venta, partly out of curiosity and partly in order to get out of the hot sun. Entering a large passage, almost a yard — the sagiian — in which a horse was standing, wc found two rooms opening out of it on the right and left.

That on the left was a square, dirty-looking place, with some tables and chairs in it, and in one corner a dripstone. They are a sort of porous sand- stone, formed of the remains of broken shells and grains of broken volcanic stone, solidified calcareous sandstone, and act as filters. The entire water-supply of some of the islands, and in some places in each island, is kept in cisterns ; and lying stagnant, as it does, from one winter to another, filtration is very necessary.

The best stones come from Fuertcventura.

These stones do not remove all impurities from the water, but they serve to clear it ; and when, as in the chief towns the water comes from the mountains, the clarifying pr is of course sufficient- Leaving the gloomy sala of the venta, we crossed to shop or bar-room on the opposite side. We have not in England to correspond with the venta. It is a sort public-house, where, however, beds cannot be proem Other things besides food for immediate consumption may be bought, it being a very inferior kind of general shop.

While awaiting our charioteer's pleasure, we stood out-. None of the donkeys and but few of the mules had shoes. Their hoofs could not have been in better order, nor a better shape. These animals are worked all the year round, not having rest in winter, like the Norsk hor of coarse, to be found through- out the island, but the ground is everywhere very hard and en stony.

The coach from Laguna passed while we is merely an old omnibus. There is communication iwccn Santa Cruz and Puerto de Orotava twice a-day by of these omnibuses. Women passing to and fro were. On another occasion, later in our els in the islands, we saw a woman upon a rather windy? Mackcrrick when he a short visit to Santa Cruz in [ The lcs- tempcrature is noticeable in many ways, the cultivated looks greener, and we pass a threshing-floor, showing ; we have reached the region of cereals.

The ransito de consumes, or fitiato, the varns us that we are on the borders of Laguna. H'uf ks of Pder Pindar,. WaJcott , vol. I have had many discussions on the merits and demerits of this system of taxation, which most people consider a bleeding operation, killing all progress amonj the lower orders of the people. The defenders of the system say it is an equal tax, falling alike on rich and poor. Such, however, is not really the case, for it is the products of the poor that are taxed, the food that is produced and sold in order to earn the actual living of the poor.

Trees are here planted, as they are near Santa Cruz, on each side of the road. The highway runs through the centre of Laguna, but unfortunately where the houses commence the good macadamised road ceases, so that notwithstanding our pace is a slow walk, we jolt and tumble and bump over the execrable stone pavement.

A noiseless camel, with swinging tread and cynical physi- ognomy, is the only living thing we encounter as we drive noisily through the deserted streets. Laguna we received our first lesson eating prickly pears, by no means easy feat to the uninitiated. Special plan: however, arc kept for fruit, as insect prevents its perfect growth, shape the pear is oval, about the of a duck's egg.

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Full text of "Tenerife and its six satellites; or, The Canary Islands past and present"

It is well n prickly, for the entire surface is cove by tiny thorns, so minute that wh they enter the flesh it is almost impos stble lo extract them. As it is likely that the fruit may bej largely introduced into England, an exact account of how oi. The first and most impor- ant rule is never to touch the fruit with the Sogers, Cut off ibout half-an-inch from each end, and then cut the pear engthways for the dcptli of the skin only, which is about a quarter of an inch thick, pulling it apart on either side with cnife and folic Inside is a juicy ball, about the size of the- folk of a duck's egg, of clear, grceny-whitc jelly, and seeds like grapeshot ; this extract and swallow.

The flavour is that of sweet water. The eating of a prickly pear has been fitly described as " filling your mouth with shot and gulping it with a draught of water. They are the great fruit of the peasants, but they are not "the chief, if not the sole, article of food," as a Blue-book asserts! One must be travelling on horseback or on foot in a thirsty land without water, a cloudless sky overhead, a burning soil toot, before the appearance of a higo pico, bristling with invisible thorns, becomes in one's eyes the most delicious and luscious of fruits.

Lagvna means a lake, or rather a marshy lake. When Ac Spaniards first came to the island, there was a lake here, which in the wet season increased very considerably. A monastery was built at one side of it, the village being at the other, and until within about the last hundred years, when tic monks were banished, they used to ferry themselves across. The last boat used, one very similar to the curricle of Ireland, is now in the possession of a blacksmith, who fees it as a receptacle for water to cool irons.

The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby
The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby
The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby
The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby
The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby
The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby The pulse impact of an island - Tenerife - and with the whole heart thereby

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